Monday, January 29, 2007

En maaned paa tur i dag den 29. januar...

...Skulle til aa skrive at dette var den foerste hele maaneden uten regn i mitt liv. Meen, var nettopp utenfor internettsjappa for aa ta meg en roeyk, og joess, det styrtregner, lyner og tordner!! Jeg maate bare loepe uti regnet og smile og le, mens inderne saa heller misfornoeyde ut! Ikke det at jeg savner regnet i Bergen, overhodet ikke, men en regnskyll gjoer seg godt i denne stoevete byen!

Av hoeydepunkter siden sist, maa jeg nevne den internasjonale matfestivalen paa campus sist fredag. Konseptet var enkelt, studenter fra de ulike landene lager mat som er typisk fra der de kommer fra, og selger det non-profitt til de som toer aa proeve. Eg hoevlet over baade iranske, japanske, syriske og usbekiske retter (STAPPmett, maa vite) foer eg gav meg. Noen av landene hadde faktisk faatt hjelp fra sine ambassader i tilberedningen og salget. Vi nordmenn hadde ikke gaatt saa grundig til verks, det eneste vi hadde til raadighet var en steikepanne i Laura fra US and A sin leilighet. Saa hva lager vi da? Sveler! (= lapper for de uinnvidde, selv om det ikke er noeyaktig det samme). Uansett kunne vi ikke si at vi solgte "Laps", for paa engelsk er det ensbetydene med Samer, og det ville ikke tatt seg ut og selge!

Oppskriften paa sveler... Vel, det var ikke bestemors roere vi fikk blandet i hop! Jeg regner med at en goood norsk oppskrift innbefatter kefir og natron (riktig, bestemor?!), men det lot seg selvsagt ikke oppdrive. Derfor ble foelgende oppskrift tatt i bruk: hvete, grovkornet sukker(umulig aa roere ut), bakepulver, youghurt naturell og smellfeit boeffelmelk (8-10 prosent fett). Spiselig var de, men ikke droemmeresultat. Uansett, vi solgte rubbel og bit, med blaabaer- eller jordbaersyltetoey som tilbehoer, og det saa ut som folk likte de fikk.

Paa loerdag var vi ute paa en skikkelig skovtur, ogsaa kjent som en real fyllekule. Bar-regning paa 2300 rupies, dvs. 325 kroner, er eekstremt mye her nede. Whiskeyen satt som en kule og minnet fra de siste timer er blurret... foerste skikkelige tur paa byen i Dehli (en hel maaned uten!), og det skal bli lenge til neste...

Sov selvsagt lenge igaar (soendag), reparerte med vann med antidehydreringspulver og kom meg til hektene etter sigende i 19-20 tiden igaar kveld. Satt og drakk Chai (te med melk og masse sukker, veldig populaert blant inderne) med Lene og etterhvert Basty, en finfin tysker og fellow geografistudent resten av kvelden. Siden jeg sov saa lenge, var jeg selvsagt ikke troett i normal tid saa jeg satt og jabbet med Subir hele natten. Subir er den foerste inderen jeg har blitt skikkelig kjent med, en skikkelig oppegaaende fyr som har mye spennende aa fortelle om JNU, Dehli, India og things in general.

Han fortalte meg for eksempel en god del om de politiske stroemningene paa JNU campus. De er som jeg allerede hatt faatt inntrykk av foer jeg snakket med Subir, ekstremt venstreorienterte. De kryr av kommunistiske/marxistiske studentorganisasjoner, men forskjellene mellom de er marginale. Paa en maate er det litt overraskende at det er slik paa nettopp dette universitetet. Opptakskravet for aa komme inn her paa JNU, for indere, er nemlig at man maa komme innenfor det 5 prosent beste sjiktet karaktermessig etter bachelorgraden. Det er glupe indere det, for det er flere 10-talls millioner studenter i India! Men etter hva jeg leser rundt om paa campus, saa virker det som marxistene er litt lite nyanserte. Retorikken er gjerne "kill George Bush, the new global dictator", "fight against american imperialism" etc, uten at jeg har sett den helt store tyngden i argumentene enda.

Mange professorer lar det ogsaa skinne kraftig gjennom at det tilhoerer den roede garde. Foreleseren jeg har i politisk geografi, Mr. Butola, er en av dem. Han har jeg skrevet om foer, og han skriver jeg gjerne om igjen. Svaert spesiell type, svaert glad i sin egen stemme, spinnvill entusiasme og alltid et snev av ironi: "So, Jorgen, do you find my course useful?", hvorpaa jeg svarer, "of course, it's a good class!". Han smiler: "No, me educating you is not nice, I want you to feel as uncomfortable as possible!" I want you to question every thing I say! So now, be uncomfortable! You shall not understand!". Forstaar godt hva han mener stort sett, bortsett fra naar han blir saa ivrig og snakker saa fort at vi tror han har begynt med tungetale. Smeller haanden i bordet, tar nesten froskehopp, vifter med nevene, danser, peker og gestikulerer mer paa to skoletimer enn Yngve Haagensen har gjort i hele sin karriere! ..

Saa levererer han som sagt artige og ikke alltid like velbegrunnede "roede" utsagn. Eksempel:
"Sustainable development is simply a western construct, so that they can keep the world divided. They dont want a unified third world!"...

Samtidig er det for meg fullt ut forstaaelig at disse "hoeyintellektuelle" JNUittene blir saa venstredreide som de er. Ulikhetene er jo helt vanvittig her. Det har mye med kastesystemet aa gjoere, spesielt paa landsbygdene. Men det er ikke hele forklaringen heller. Det er ogsaa klart at forvaltningssystemet er svaert tunggrodd, hvor staten fortsatt driver saakalt "5-aarsplanspolitikk" med store reformer som ikke blir gjennomfoert slik det var tiltenkt. Delstatene har ogsaa en hoey grad av autonomitet, og blant annet derfor er det ogsaa store problemer med aa faa til samordnende planlegging som har et langtidsperspektiv. Det poeses gjerne ut penger, men medisinen er "paracet", ikke noe som fjerner de grunnleggende problemene India staar overfor. En annen faktor er korrupsjonen i statsforvaltningen, som er helt noedvendig for at systemet i det hele tatt skal fungere.

Saa mange innbyggere, og flere hundre millioner av dem er "peasants" (enkel forklaring: boender som driver selvbergingsjordbruk, til forskjell fra "farmers", boender som driver profittbasert jordbruk.). Haaploest jordbrukslovverk som naermest er foeydalt enda, hvor hoeykastene sitter paa alt jordeierskap og peasants som naermest arbeider som slaver. Marxistenens medisin er selvsagt omfattende landreformer, men det er ifoelge Subir en haaploes kamp. Saa lenge kastesystemer er en saa integrert i det indiske samfunn vil det aldri skje saa dyptgripende reformer. Den franske revolusjon hylles, og det vraeles paa revolusjon baade titt og ofte. Jeg forstaar saa absolutt frustrasjonen. Jeg kan vaere enig i at det er behov for svaert fundamentale reformer, men retorikken her paa Campus er saa voldsom at jeg maa akklimatiseres. Og selvsagt, jeg maa laere mer om India... Prosessen paagaar hele tiden...

-----

Ellers saa har noen av planer om fjelltrasking i Nepal i slutten av mai/begynnelsen av juni, uten at konkrete skritt er tatt enda. Det er i hvert fall noe jeg virkelig har lyst til, spesielt siden varmen i lavlandet paa den tiden er 45-48 grader!!! .. Dessuten har jeg aldri vaert naermere himmelen enn Finse, og det er rett og slett pinglete. Saa med litt jogging, fotballspilling, trening rett og slett (!), skal det la seg gjoere... ...Starte i Nepals hovedstad Katmandu paa omtrent 2000 meters hoeyde, og kanskje trekke et par tusen meter til oppover i Himalaya. Vi faar se, det hadde vaert utrolig moro aa faa det til...

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Blir kastet ut herfra naa, de stenger, lukker og laaser. Ut i regnet med meg!

Til neste gang,


har jeg laert meg aa telle til 10 paa hindi.

Ek, do, thiin...... :)

24 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hei på deg igjen Jørgen.

Tenk nå har du vært der en måned. Heldiggris.

Du skal nok få lære deg mangt og masse om kastesystemet mens du er der. Dalitter/kasteløse som blir drept,banket eller torturert fordi de kanskje ønsker en skolegang... Gjerne av disse røde, marxistiske lærerene.. Ikke bokstavlig, men disse lærerene har (ihvertfall i de sørlige deler av India) beordret mangt et fælt angrep på en Dalitt som har kjempet seg opp og inn på skolen.

En mastergradsstudent fra Norge som jeg kom i kontakt med da jeg var i Pondicherry skrev masteren sin om dalitter og kastesystemet. Vet ikke om det gjaldt hele India eller bare de sørlige deler. Hun hadde kommet i kontakt med en familie kasteløse, der deres eneste sønn og en gruppe med andre menn hadde klart med støtte fra "byrådet" å få rett til en plass på høyskole. Lærerene og deler av administrasjonen på denne skolen hadde vært så sterkt i mot det, at de hadde betalt elever ved denne skolen for banke disse guttene. Det resulterte i døden for noen av dem, deriblant denne sønnen i denne familien. Dette i en delstat hvor de fleste lærere, inkludert disse har en temmelig rød bakgrunn.

Jeg husker ikke om noen ble tatt for dette. Men jeg vet at denne familien mistet hele sin sikre inntektskilde, da dette var deres eneste sønn og de selv var arbeidsuføre. Og de hadde nå bare to døtre igjen, og jenter er dyr buisness... ettersom man må betale medgift for å få dem gift... og når de først er gift er de jo mannens og hans familie sin "eiendom".

En annen ting som du kanskje skal finne ut, er at selvmord er svært vanlig. Jeg tror ikke det gikk en uke uten at man fikk høre om noen som hadde tatt sitt eget liv.

Og helt tilslutt.... sitatene fra din kjære foreleser som "vil deg ille", ihvertfall at du skal ha det ukomfortabelt. Disse om kapitalistiske vesten som hindrer 3. verdens fremvekst og selvstendighet, og fryker en forent 3.verden. Du finner de her hjemme. Jeg har vært innom slike uttalelser på sampol 115. De er hentet fra dependency teorien. et ganske bredt spekter av demokratiseringsteorien. vokste frem på 60-tallet og har viklet seg inn antiglobaliseringkreftene samt hos venstrevridde organisasjoner... Og husker jeg ikke helt feil, så kommer det i utgangspunktet sikkert fra en eller annen kapitalist som har fundert på "what makes democracies endure". Just thought you want to know... eller egentlig ville jeg bare vise at -"gud, jeg har faktisk fått med meg noe på uib".

Dette ble langt jørgen. Uansett - kos deg, lær masse. Om alt!

Jeg gleder meg til neste berettning.

Renate

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Halloen sjef.
Tiden flyr, og om drøye to uker er vi på plass i indien. Blir hakket vanskeligere å fokusere på regionale omstillingsprosesser når man stort sett ser frem til en herlig tørr og fin kameltur i ørkenen, malingskriger og helt sikkert mye, mye mer. Vaksiner er stort sett unnagjort, så nå gjelder det bare å styre unna diverse influensaer som er på vei mot vestlandet...
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